The new culinary hot spot in London

Restaurants that mix traditional cuisine to contemporary pairing and dressing
2019-04-01
Gastronomy

HYDE

85 Piccadilly, London W1J 7NB. 020 3146 8666

Exquisite food and unforgettable wines. There are three wine pairing options for the tasting menu, or you can choose from 4,000 wines in the Hedonism cellar. The tasting menu itself is a nine-step journey to foodie heaven. Highlights include the divine camomile dressing that comes with a plate of crudités; a perfect, ripe tomato stuffed with olives and served with its own ‘essence’; cured salmon in an attractively scrummy lake of crème crue; Dabbous’s signature dish, the ‘nest egg’; barbecued lobster ‘the best ever had’; the tiny bowl of duck broth full of fresh, crunchy veg that accompanied the roast duck; and the exceptional jasmine and pea flower religieuse, served with a shot of chilled jasmine tea.

KAHANI

1 Wilbraham Place, London SW1 9AE. 020 7730 7634

At the helm is Peter Joseph, previously head chef of Tamarind, the first Indian restaurant in the world to earn a Michelin star. Kahani is more laidback, serving sharing plates of flavour-packed Indian food. The ‘small plates’, savoury donuts of different textures attractively drenched with sweet yoghurt and tamarind chutney, show-stopping soft-shell crab, beet cakes with a crunchy curry leaf and poppadum crust. The mains make use of the finest British produce, think Somerset lamb shank slow-cooked into Nalli Gosht, Gressingham duck with coriander and pokharaya chutney and perfectly flaky fragrantly spiced salmon. There are curries, of course, a mild but flavoursome fish curry and their signature butter chicken. And deserts such as a melting chilli chocolate dome, which collapses on a mousse with sweet, milky bits of Gulab Jamun is very scrumptious. And the trio of kulfi – pistachio, rose and salted caramel – are light and delicate.

ROVI

59 wells street, London W1A 3AE. 020 3963 8270

When darling of the London foodie scene Yotam Ottolenghi opens a new restaurant in your neighbourhood, it’s a sign that it’s going to be the next gastronomical hotspot. His sixth and latest outpost is Rovi with dishes cooked over an open fire for a smoky, charred flavour: from the spaghetti squash, with its distinctive texture and cooling mandarin yogurt and spicy Esme relish, to the celeriac shawarma, so meaty and rich; the fish are a triumph too, we found the onglet skewers, served with a sticky sauce of fermented green chilli and peanut particularly moreish.

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